In this scenario
you need at least 9 identical compartments. One for the cock and
8 for the mated pairs.
When the 1st
4 pairs have raised their babies to about 14 days or when the
cock starts to call the hen — you remove the cock and the
babies to a pen away from the hens. Leave the hens alone with
their nest bowls in place for 2 or 3 days — By now you should
have 4 hens alone.
you take the poly cock to the hens, only long enough for treading.
If at first the hen does not accept the cock, move him to the
next hen. After one or 2 trips — It usu-ally works. One
or two hens AM the other two throughout the day.
Do not allow
him to remain with any one hen longer than necessary you don’t
want either to become attached.
2nd egg is fertilized 4 hours after the 1st egg is laid —
you continue putting the poly cock with the hens only to the day
they lay egg #1.
1 then remove
and mark the first egg (eyebrow pencil works well) and replace
it with a wooden egg.
morning, bring back the original cock and the babies. The cock
will be very aggressive for a half hour or so but by the time
the hen lays her second egg he will be ready to continue playing
papa for your special cocks babies.
Now you can
concentrate on the other 4 pair.
If you repeat
the procedure once more you can have 16 babies from the original
cocks and 32 from your “poly cock.” A great way to
prove out a Special Cock while insuring yourself of 16 young from
your stock pairs.
This system requires 4 identical individuals + 1 for your Poly
by putting 4 hens (same color if possible) into the compartments,
place nest bowls and shavings or whatever nesting material they
are used to in each compartment.
On the 2nd
day you bring the “poly cock” to hen #1 from 7: am
to 9: am then to # 2 from 9: am to 12 noon, 4 3 noon till 4: pm
and #4 from 4 pm till dusk.
cock to his own compartment for the night — repeat the procedure
for the next 8 to 10 days — or until each hen lays her first
When the 2nd
egg is laid place under foster parents to hatch and raise.
leave the cock in his compartment for 5 days and the hens in theirs
— start the same routine and in about 3 weeks from the time
you started you should have 16 eggs
You also need
8 pair of foster parents by week 3
original 4 hens and bring in 4 new ones, again try to match colors
— go through the same procedure as before within 6 weeks
you will have 32 eggs IF all goes well.
8 pair of foster parents will be needed.
After 2 rounds
from set #2 bring back the first set of 4 and continue as before
A total of 64 eggs in about 3 1/2 months or less.
to April 10th
I have found
that about 25 pair of foster parents are needed to get through
the pro-gram. Due to slow or fast laying etc.
This is the system we use most of the time for our racing pigeons:
We have 55
identical compartments in our main breeding loft. Which is important
to get the very most from our special cocks.
If we put
hens into the compartments in early spring that have raised babies
there last breeding season — Even with no cocks 8 out of
10 will start to lay within 2 weeks (unless the weather is very
bad). The ones that show no interest in their nest we put their
last years mate with them for 1 or 2 days — This usually
works to wake them up — If not we replace them.
If you check
each hen daily you are able to tell by their looks and actions
when they are getting eggy.
are 4 or 5 days from their 1st egg we start putting the poly cock
with them only long enough for treading — Remove him and
put with him another hen. Again only long
enough to do his job.
I have had
a few cocks that would go to as many as 5 hens in a row —
most will go with 2 and some only one — wait an hour and
more often than not you can get the 2nd hen bred etc.
If you have
the right “Poly Cock” one that does not fall in love
easily and one that does not fight the hen, you can get lots of
babies with this system.
So if you
have 10 or 15 hens and 15 pairs of foster parents its possible
to get 20 to 30 eggs in two weeks from one cock. 85 to 95% will
If the cock
fights a hen take him out and put him in his own compartment until
he settles down usually 1 hour will be enough.
Give him a
spoonful of hemp/flax/safflower and he will be back to normal
and ready for another hen.
If I have
15 hens — I try to line up the same colors in a row —
today I take him to 6 or 8 blue bars and the next day to BCs.
One time every
other day will usually be enough — If you screw up and don’t
get him to a hen within 48 hours of her 1st egg you will miss
the 1st but will have the 2nd fertile. Even when she is bred the
day of the laying of the 1st egg.
The surest way and easiest way is to let the hens raise one round
with another cock. When the babies are 12 to 14 days old remove
the cocks and babies to another loft. The hen will continue to
lay every 10 to 12 days.
Put the Poly
cock with them 2 or 3 times prior to 48 hours before their 1st
egg and you can get 6 from each in a 6 week period.
A total of
8 eggs will not hurt a healthy hen — as long as Calcium/Minerals!
Vitamins are available to them.
IF wavy eggs
appear — take the hen away and put in fly pen for 2 or 3
weeks or even for the rest of the year.
It is important to keep Calcium and minerals in front of the hens
at all times and vita-mins 2 times each week along with 16/17%
The cock is
given a spoonful of hemp-flax— safflower, a few drops of
Avitron twice weekly — we did this with the “Red Poot”
20 years old — the “Iron Horse” who is 20 and
still fertiles every egg. His grandfather bred winners with 15
hens over a 21-year period. (His son in the yb races of this year
won a 250 mi. combine race out front by 80 ypm for Tony Vandenberg).
When the breeding
season is over and all birds are in the break-up fly pens and
before the moult starts we medicate as follows:
1. 5 days
with de Weerd’s B.S. for cocci/canker followed with 2 days
vitamins, de Weerd or natural or Vitapreen. Most are pretty much
the same. Garlic oil on the feed with brewers yeast is good once
or twice weekly for feather quality — Also works with Sulmet/Emtryl.
B.S. Same as Ridzol, Sulfamiazine, Vitamin and Dextrose.
2. 8 days
with paratyphoid. De Weerd’s parastop — Baytril is
the only known medi-cation to cure Carriers of Paratyphoid. But
is very hard on the system and only to be used in severe cases)
We have found when used on YBs we get 1 very good race and then
they lose form and slow down very quickly. We always give vitamins
or aci-dophilus or both. Acidophilus 1st, one day vitamins one
day after medication
3. We treat
days for any respiratory problems. De Weerd’s W.N. which
is approximately 2 parts Aureomycin 1 part Terrimycin with dextrose
and vitamins. C. T. C. is good — Tylan and garlic is good
— other medicines?? 4 in 1 is also good. Again we follow
up with 2 days of vitamins
4. Two days
on de Weerd’s worm medicine (Wormco). Or 3 drops of Ivomec
to each bird. (DeWeerd also sells bottles of 50 worm caps for
individual treatment which can be used during race season with
NO ill effects, given 4 or 5 days before the race) follow the
treatment with 2 days vitamins. Best is to take droppings to a
NO WORMS NO MEDICATION
10 birds direct from the Klak Auctions